Textiles and Fashion in the 18th Century

• Textiles & Fashion

• 18^th Century
• 19^th Century
• 20^th Century

During most of the eighteenth century, France was the epicenter of fashion and had a highly developed industry for the production of luxurious textiles, fashion accessories and clothing. Seasonal innovations in French fashion were well established by the 1720s, requiring an ever-changing selection of textiles and accessories. Sample books were used to market small accessories, such as buttons, and for those fabrics that could be appreciated in a small swatch. Preproduction samples were sent to clients to solicit and customize orders. Suppliers sent postproduction samples to confirm orders, retaining a duplicate set for reference.

By the middle of the century, in the highly competitive international textile market, sample books were a source for plagiarists interested in producing cheaper copies of the latest fashions. Piracy was fueled by the huge demand for novelty, and sample books, often available early in the season, provided a preview of the newest fashions. Responding to merchants’ concerns for protecting their designs, the French government enacted pattern protection legislation, which became more stringent as the century progressed. Similar copying issues existed in competing countries, primarily England, where the printed cotton industry flourished in the eighteenth century. Ironically, the development of the calico industry in England was itself based on copying. The importation of large numbers of printed textiles from India started a fashion craze in the early part of the century, threatened the local textile industry, and gave the British a taste for having a broad selection of textile patterns available. In response, the large scale production of printed textiles began in Northern England and Scotland, a driving force in the early industrialization of Great Britain.