Contemporary Muslim Fashions | Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum

Major Exhibition Explores the Modest Fashion Industry’s Rise

Contemporary Muslim Fashions examines how Muslim women—those who cover their heads and those who do not—have become arbiters of style within and beyond their communities. As designers and entrepreneurs, they have shown that clothing can be on-trend and still meet the needs of diverse wearers. As consumers, they have used their influence to shape global fashion markets. And as journalists, bloggers, and influencers, they have confronted a lack of representation in the mainstream fashion narrative and drawn international attention to the vitality of Muslim modest style.

Contemporary Muslim Fashions features approximately 80 ensembles drawn from established and emerging designers in high-end fashion, streetwear, sportswear, and couture, as well as about 40 photographs. Interviews and footage of designers at work in their studios introduces a new generation of designers—75% of the designers, artists, and influencers in the exhibition are Muslim women under 40 years of age—and their focus on entrepreneurship, inclusion, and sustainable and ethical practices.

A cool influencer with a medium skin tone shows off her street style. She has one hand on her hip and stares unsmiling at the camera. She wears a brown head wrap, gold hoop earrings that are so large they brush her shoulders, a camo-print scarf around her neck, an eggplant-color dress with an asymmetrical hem with long sleeves and red and gold detailing, camo-print pants, and taupe open toe lace-up platform high heel shoes. — Naima Muhammad (b. 1973, United States) for House of Coqueta (est. 2010, United States); Ensemble (tunic, pants, headwrap, and neck scarf), Yar Hawwa Collection; 2017; Printed Ghanaian cotton and polyester blend

A young woman with a rich olive skin tone tosses over her shoulder a black flighter jacket with white Arabic text on the back. Her hair is tied back in a bun and has a lone red highlight. She has dramatic eyebrows, cat eye eyeliner, and is wearing lipstick. A trio of stud-shaped earrings sparkle on her ear lobes. — Céline Semaan Vernon (b. 1982, Lebanon) for Slow Factory (est. 2012, United States); “US Constitution and First Amendment” flight jacket; 2017; Screen-printed polyester; Courtesy of Slow Factory

A model runs in place.She wears a black hijab, a purple slicker coat with hood, a white tunic that ends with a stripe of fabric matching the coat, baggy black pants with a sporty stripe on one side, and white running sneakers. Her face is determined and serious. — Yasmin Sobeih (b. 1990, United Kingdom) for UNDER-RÂPT (est. 2017, United Kingdom); Ensemble (raincoat, T-shirt, shorts, hooded top, and sport tights); 2018; Printed MicroModal®, Tencel™; Courtesy of UNDER-RÂPT

Céline Semaan Vernon (b. 1982, Lebanon) for Slow Factory (est. 2012, United States); BANNED scarf; 2017; Cotton and silk; Courtesy of Slow Factory

Barjis Chohan (b. 1971, Pakistan) for Barjis (est. 2011, United Kingdom); Ensemble (top, jacket, pants, and headscarf); Spring/Summer 2015; Cotton; digital-printed silk crepe; polyester chiffon; and Maxi dress; Spring/Summer 2015; Digital-printed silk crepe and synthetic net; Courtesy of Barjis

Publication

This dazzling exploration of contemporary Muslim modest dress, from historic styles to present-day examples, reveals the enormous range of self-expression through fashion achieved by Muslim men and women. Filled with documentary and fashion photography as well as stills from runway shows and the media, this book explores the ways Muslim style cultures are shaped by global trends and religious beliefs. From high-end couture to streetwear, this volume shows how established and diaspora regions, such as Dubai, Jakarta, London, and New York, are homes to thriving industries that create classic and cutting-edge looks. A fascinating examination of a major segment of the fashion industry, this book highlights the ingenuity and creativity of Muslim designers and wearers as they deftly navigate the fashion industry while maintaining their religious and cultural identities.

Published by The Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco with Delmonico/Prestel, the volume includes essays by D’Alessandro, Camerlengo and Lewis. Additional texts by Alex Aubry, director of the Fashion Resource Center at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago and editor-at-large for Harper’s Bazaar Arabia; Shiva Balaghi, cultural historian of the Middle East and writer; Carla Jones, associate professor of anthropology at the University of Colorado Boulder; Su’ad Abdul Khabeer; Deena Aljuhan Abdulaziz; Remona Aly; Sariya Cheruvallil-Contractor; and Shelina Janmohamed.

Acknowledgements

The museum gratefully acknowledges these community leaders for their input and guidance on Cooper Hewitt’s presentation of Contemporary Muslim Fashions:

Debbie Almontaser, CEO and Founder, Bridging Cultures; Rev. Chloe Breyer, Executive Director, Interfaith Center of New York; Hanadi Doleh, Program Associate for Community Partnerships, Interfaith Center of New York; Aziza Gaouda, Manager of Operations and Community Development, Islamic Center at New York University; Adi Gil, Designer and Co-founder, threeASFOUR; Jenna Hamed, Gathering All Muslim Artists; Aliyah Khabir, Founder, AZK Communications; Afraz Khan, Events and Community Director, Muppies: Muslim Urban Professionals; Alia Khan, Chairwoman, Islamic Fashion and Design Council; Aniqa Nawabs, Executive Director, Muslim Community Network; Daniel Nelson, Director, GAMA—Gathering All Muslim Artists Collective; Edwin Reyes, Designer and Founder, Fine by Edwin Reyes.

Exhibition architecture and graphic design by Isometric Studio.

Contemporary Muslim Fashions is organized by the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

The Cooper Hewitt presentation of Contemporary Muslim Fashions is made possible by support from the August Heckscher Exhibition Fund.

Additional support is provided by the Barbara and Morton Mandel Design Gallery Endowment Fund and Edward and Helen Hintz.

Funding is also provided by the Cooper Hewitt Master’s Program Fund.